I've had to initiate rescue twice in my climbing career. The first time was a partner with a broken leg on a glacier — the decision to activate a PLB was clear-cut. The second time was less obvious: a partner developing altitude symptoms that might have been AMS or might have been dehydration and exhaustion, with evacuation requiring a 5-hour descent that itself had risk. The lesson from both experiences is that rescue decisions are almost always nuanced, and the quality of your decision-making depends on understanding your options, their risks, and their likely outcomes before you're in a situation where stress compromises judgment.
Self-Rescue Options
The first principle of mountaineering emergency response is that you are your own rescue system until professional help arrives. In most mountain terrain, professional rescue — even when activated — will take hours to arrive and additional hours to reach your location. In that window, your group's self-rescue capability determines outcomes.
Self-rescue for injury: If a team member is injured but mobile, the first step is to move them to a safe location (shelter from wind, sun, or precipitation) and assess the injury. Can they walk? If yes, assisted walking (with poles, between partners) may allow self-evacuation. If not, can they be moved with a makeshift stretcher (using a tent body, sleeping pad, or rope stretcher) over short distances? For more on self-rescue techniques, see our Crevasse Rescue guide.
Self-rescue for altitude illness: If a team member is showing altitude illness symptoms, the primary treatment is descent. In most cases of AMS, descent of 300-500m produces rapid improvement. The decision to self-evacuate a person with suspected HACE or HAPE (which can be fatal if left at altitude) should be made decisively — even if the descent itself is risky, the risk of remaining is higher.
When to Call for Rescue
Calling for professional rescue is appropriate when the situation exceeds your group's self-rescue capability. This includes: serious injuries (fractures, significant head trauma, spine injuries), life-threatening medical conditions (severe AMS, HACE, HAPE, hypothermia, major bleeding), entrapment that can't be self-rescued (complex crevasse rescue, technical pinned situations), and exhaustion or illness in a team member that prevents self-evacuation.
The decision to call rescue is not always clear-cut. The relevant question is: "If professional help doesn't arrive, what is the likely outcome?" If the answer is "serious injury or death," call for help. If the answer is "delayed arrival at the trailhead with discomfort," self-evacuation is probably appropriate. The cost of an unnecessary rescue (in resources, risk to rescuers, and financial cost depending on your country's rescue system) must be weighed against the cost of delayed rescue in a genuine emergency.
In the US and many other countries, there is no charge for search and rescue operations. In some countries, rescue can result in significant charges to the rescued party. Regardless of cost, never hesitate to call for rescue in a genuine emergency — the cost of a rescue bill is trivial compared to the cost of a preventable death.
Activating Rescue
The method of rescue activation matters. PLBs provide the most reliable notification to the international COSPAS-SARSAT satellite system and typically result in contact with national rescue coordination within an hour of activation. Satellite messengers (inReach, Zoleo) provide two-way communication that allows you to convey details about the emergency. Cell phones work in areas with coverage but are unreliable in most mountain terrain.
When activating rescue: provide your exact coordinates (from GPS), the nature of the emergency, the number of people involved, the condition of all team members, the equipment available, and your current weather conditions. Be specific — "broken leg at coordinate X, one companion, no other injuries, weather clear, currently at 3,800m" is actionable. "Someone is hurt" is not.
Helicopter Safety
Helicopter rescue in mountain terrain is one of the most dangerous forms of aviation. Helicopters can only operate within their performance envelope, which is significantly reduced by altitude, temperature, and wind. A helicopter that appears to be hovering may be experiencing marginal conditions, and a sudden wind gust or temperature change can push it beyond its safe operating limits.
If a helicopter is coming to evacuate you: designate a clear landing zone (a flat area, minimum 30m x 30m, free of debris and obstructions), remove all loose items (packs, gear, hats) that could be blown by rotor downwash, and stay clear of the helicopter until the crew signals you approach. When the helicopter lands, approach from the downwind side, in a crouch, never raising your hands above your head (the tail rotor is invisible and deadly at eye level). If you're with an injured person, do not move them until the crew assesses and directs the move.
Ground Evacuation
When helicopter evacuation is not available or not possible, ground evacuation is the remaining option. This is physically demanding, slow, and potentially increases risk to the evacuee and evacuation team. Ground evacuation should be attempted only when: the evacuation route is within the team's navigational capability, the terrain is manageable for a stretcher or assisted walking, and the team is physically capable of completing the evacuation without creating additional casualties.
For an injured person who cannot walk, a makeshift stretcher using a tent body, sleeping pads, rope, and fixed objects can be constructed. The stretcher should be tested for stability before loading the injured person. Moving a stretcher over rough terrain requires at least 4 people (one at each corner) and is extremely slow — budget roughly 1 km per hour over moderate terrain.
Related Articles
- Mountaineering Communication Radios — Activating rescue and communicating with services
- First Aid for Climbers — Stabilizing casualties before evacuation
- Crevasse Rescue Techniques — Self-rescue for crevasse incidents