A knot is only as good as your ability to tie it correctly under pressure — literally and figuratively. I've seen climbers who could tie a perfect figure-8 in a gym but fumbled completely when it was -15°C, their fingers numb, the rope already running through their hands as the anchor failed. The knots in this guide are the ones I use regularly, and the notes about tying them come from mistakes I've made and observed over two decades of alpine climbing.
The Figure-8: Your Workhorse
The figure-8 is the primary knot in most climbing contexts. It's strong, easy to inspect, and easy to untie after loading. The figure-8 follow-through — tying the rope back to itself — is the standard tie-in knot for roped climbing. The critical check: after tying, the standing part and the loop should both be visible. If you can't see the figure-8 clearly, you've tied something wrong.
The figure-8 stopper knot — tied at the end of a rope to prevent the rope from running through a rappel device — is often rushed and done incorrectly. It should be a clean figure-8, not a tangles mess. A poorly tied stopper knot has killed climbers. Treat it with the same respect you give your tie-in knot.
Figure-8 Retrace (on a Bight)
Used to create a loop in the middle of a rope — for equalising anchors, for building a prusik loop, for creating a rappel loop. Fold the rope, tie a figure-8 around both strands, and you've created a loop that is secure and easy to inspect. This is often preferred over an overhand on a bight because it creates a larger, easier-to-inspect knot.
The Bowline: The Reliable Non-Loading Loop
The bowline creates a fixed loop that won't cinch under load — ideal for tying a loop around your waist (though rarely used as a tie-in today, since the figure-8 is standard). The bowline's reputation for security comes from its long history in sailing and climbing, but it must be backed up with a stopper knot: a figure-8 or overhand tied after the bowline to prevent it from untying if the standing end is pulled.
Tying the bowline: form a loop in the standing part, pass the end up through the loop from below, wrap around the back of the standing part, and back down through the loop. The resulting loop is fixed — it won't tighten under load. I've used bowlines for creating an anchor绳 around a tree, where its non-constricting nature is essential.
The Clove Hitch: Quick Anchoring
The clove hitch is invaluable for quickly attaching to an anchor when you're building a belay. Its great advantage: it can be adjusted without untying. Clip both loops, or clip one loop and the standing end for a tied-off attachment. In practice: clip one loop to the karabiner, clip the second loop to the same karabiner, and you've attached to the anchor. To adjust, just shift the knot.
The clove hitch's weakness: it can loosen when loaded in one direction for extended periods, and in some configurations it can twist the rope. Check it before each transition. When building anchors, I use the clove hitch primarily for adjustments — the final anchor configuration is typically locked off with other knots or a专用 hitch.
The Münter Hitch: The All-Purpose Friction Hitch
The Münter hitch — sometimes called the Italian hitch — is the most versatile hitch in mountaineering. It can be used as a belay device (it's the basis of the traditional Italian-style belay), as an improvised ascender, and as a rappel device. When tied through a karabiner with the rope coming from below, it provides controllable friction. Loading the rope from above makes it lock.
The Münter creates significant rope twist — after a Münter-based rappel, the rope will be very twisted. This is manageable but annoying if you're doing multiple rappels. For belaying with a Münter, clip it to your harness with the gate facing away from the belay loop to reduce the risk of cross-loading. The knot can also cam if loaded and unloaded repeatedly — check it during extended use.
Prusik and Friction Hitches: Ascending and Arresting
Prusik hitches — including the traditional prusik, theautoblock, and the Klemheist — are designed to grip the rope under load but slide when unloaded. They're used for ascending a rope (traditionally), for creating an effective rope brake on a rappel, and for creating adjustable attachments in rescue systems. The principle in all cases: the prusik cord (usually 5-6mm perlon) grips the thicker climbing rope (8-10mm) when weighted, but can be slid by hand when unloaded.
Theautoblock is my preferred prusik variant for rope brakes — it's simple to tie (wrap the cord around the rope three times, clip both ends to the harness), easy to release under load, and reliable. The traditional prusik (three-wrap) is more secure but harder to release when loaded. The Klemheist (braided flat tape hitch) grips very effectively but is harder to adjust.
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